Mykonos has changed over the years, from quaint Greek fishing community, through up-market celeb-magnet and gay paradise, to full-throttle party destination—and it retains elements of all these things. The capital Mykonos Town is so picturesque that it is sometimes hard to believe it is real; the thumping disco beat at Paradise Beach on the crowded south coast is a delight for party-people; the ancient Greek architecture on the UNESCO-protected museum-island of Delos is eerie and diverting. Because of this variety, Mykonos holidays always feel bespoke.