As you navigate the winding hill dotted with olive trees and beehives, St Stephano glimpsed far below looks every bit the archetypal Greek fishing village. Lining a horseshoe-shaped bay facing the Albanian mountains, it is a scattering of houses, a succession of tavernas, and a series of jetties, all set in a wooded amphitheatre dotted with elegant villas and cypress trees. It is striking, yet still has working fishing boats; a St Stephano holiday is a retreat of simple pleasures.